Neato Niche
There are many different forms of surfing but the three most common styles are bodysurfing, body-boarding and traditional surfing. Bodysurfing uses no board at all and so there is no form of flotation to assist the surfer against the surf. As a result this style requires the surfer to stay closer to shore, generally at a depth where they can touch ground.
Body-boarding (also known as boogie-boarding) uses a body-board or boogie-board which is much smaller then a traditional surfboard and therefore provides less flotation. Also due to its size the surfer can’t sit-up on the board and have it keep him afloat so his view of the coming waves is limited to either how high he can stretch up while lying on the board or how far he can see from a depth where he can stand in the water.
Traditional surfing uses the largest board, sizes vary greatly but in general it’s approximately the height of the surfer or longer. Obviously a larger board is better at keeping the surfer afloat and so the surfer can venture farther out into the surf. As well with the larger board size the surfer can fully sit-up on it while waiting for their swell and can therefore see farther out into the surf.
With that, selection of the kind of surfing technique you want to pursue is important not only for preference but also for ability. Weak swimmers may not want to start off with full blown surfing for obvious reasons. More girthy people such as myself may not fare so well with body-boarding, unless of course they can find a board big enough to hold them. With that, us XL’s might be tempted to step up to traditional surfing just starting off but in my experience the larger you are the harder it is to stand up on a surfboard in motion.
In life just as in surfing picking the right niche for yourself can mean the difference between moderate success and complete and utter failure. Everybody wants to be the Big-Kahuna and rule the beach but let’s face it, we are not all cut out for that level of performance. Accepting your limitations and focusing your efforts on your preferences while you continue to improve and strive for higher heights can mean the difference between a nice cool ride and a gnarly wipe-out.
The Right Tool for the Job
I’ve already spoken about boards, obviously for all but one form of surfing a board is necessary to even participate but there are many quality levels of boards you can use and, no surprise, the higher the quality the better the ride. In addition, there are many variations on equipment style that can impact your surfing experience.
As I mentioned earlier boards come in many sizes and have subtle shape and fin variations that effect how the board functions in the water. When starting out in surfing you’ll need to determine what kind of board will suit your riding style best. This can most easily be done by asking questions at surf shops and of experienced surfers but a fall back to that would be trial and error. Trial and error is fine because you get to experience many different kinds of boards and there is nothing like the school of hard knocks to give you perspective. But, this direction can also be very discouraging if you start off on too dramatically wrong of a board for your style.
In addition to boards there are other pieces of equipment that can enhance your experience, or seriously detriment it if they are absent. Being on the west coast where the water is only surfable without protection a few months of the year the first needed extra for any serious surfer is a wetsuit. These also come in many variations but the basic design is a zip-up neoprene suit that at a minimum covers your trunk. Without one you literally are limited to summer surfing only on the southern coast of California and as you go farther north that window of time closes quickly.
Other tools available are; a board leash to keep you tethered to your board (basically a must), fins for bodysurfing and body-boarding, webbed gloves to help you paddle through the surf and goggles for high salinity beaches. Having these little enhancements may seem unnecessary but they can make all the difference in the world when they are needed and not had.
In life just as in surfing being successful at most things requires the right equipment. Skimping on quality and seemingly unnecessary frill-tools may save you a few bucks in the beginning but it could also detriment your success to the point of complete failure. As is often the case footing the bill and securing the tools needed and at the quality level best suited for you may seem frivolous when starting out but I would much rather spend too much at the front end and succeed then see the whole investment wasted on the back end due to failure.
Get Back on the Board
If you are going to surf then you are going to wipe-out, that is just the way it is. Depending on the type of surfing you are doing and the size of the waves you are riding wipe-outs can range from mild splash-downs to bone-crunching shore-slams that make you question the very wisdom of your recreation choice. But regardless of how hard you hit the water, your board or even the ocean floor the trick is to get back on the board and try it again. The only way to get good at surfing is to surf and ultimately the more experience you gather the better you will become and the less face plants you will have to endure. That is, until you choose to upgrade your skills and/or step up your difficultly level and then you will have to take that trip through Wipeoutsville again. But you will quickly learn that every time you go there your visits will get shorter and shorter and as much as you hate it you’ll eventually learn to respect the place.
In life just as in surfing there will be failures so preparing yourself for that reality can make the sting of the water a little bit easier to handle. By all means don’t look for opportunities to fail but when they inevitably come take them in stride and see them for what they really are – opportunities to learn and grow. All the best riders when they wipeout pop up on shore, wipe the sand off their face and paddle out through the surf for another go.
Yes, surfing is a wonderful and exhilarating experience! And in my many years caught in its spell surfing has taught me many things. Mostly it’s taught me that life is full of fun but in order to get to it you have to come prepared, put in the work required, set reasonable expectations, and when you get knocked down – as life is so good at doing to us – to get back up a try it again.
(Note: You can view every article as one long page if you sign up as an Advocate Member, or higher).
