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October 25, 2010
Photo-Essay with Video: Haiti After the Earthquake, Part 16: Strolling Through the Iron Market
By Mac McKinney
Take a stroll with us through the fabulous Iron Market of Port-au-Prince, Haiti, a market which flourishes daily despite all the chaos and misfortune the Fates can throw at Haiti.
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Port-au-Prince's famous Iron Market, its origins dating back to 1889.In Part 15 Andre and I began our final tour of ravaged downtown Haiti, Andre getting me all the way to the heavily damaged banking district on Boulevard Jean-Jacques Dessalines. But just up the street beyond this now barely functioning center of financial wealth in Port-au-Prince, lies one of the city's historical icons, Haiti's famous Iron Market (Marché de Fer in French) also known as Le Marché Hyppolite or the Hyppolite Iron Market. The Iron Market actually refers to two things: The building and courtyard of said name, as well as the giant open-air marketplace that blossomed out of this fascinating iron edifice erected in the 1890's under the administration of the 15th president of Haiti, General Florvil Hyppolite.
The building, interestingly, has a distinctive Islamic architectural influence. That is because the structure includes two French-built minarets that were actually destined for a train station in Cairo, Egypt, until the deal collapsed. President Hyppolite, eager to modernize Port-au-Prince and catching wind of the failed business deal, bought the minarets himself and had what became known as the Iron Market erected in the capital. Over time, a sprawling open market developed that would serve the daily needs of countless Haitians.
The Iron Market's imposing presence loomed over downtown Port-au-Prince for over a hundred years until fire badly damaged one side in 2008. The building suffered further heavy damage from the great earthquake of January 12th, as you can see in my following photos. Plans are afoot, I have happily read, to eventually restore this venerated landmark, signifying a reinvestment in the cultural treasures of the past. Restoration would also be paying homage to the indomitable spirit of the Haitian people, who have been able to carry on with iron will against all odds over the centuries, be it slavery, revolution, civil war, invasion, dictatorship, starvation, earthquake, destitution, or now, even cholera.
Now let's take a stroll through the Iron Market:
Walking from Blvd Jean-Jacques Dessalines toward the marketplace.
These tall doors are from another time, another era.
Approaching the outskirts of the market
Haitian men, foraging through the rubble, extracting, in particular, iron rebar, which can fetch some money.
Another obliterated edifice
Haitians don't hesitate to set up in the shadows of blasted brick or concrete wraiths.
The pace at which rubble is picked up is almost infinitesimal. The government is lacking in money and resources in every sphere.
There is indeed an element of danger in shopping here, not an intrigue you would face at Walmart or Macy's.
One vendor with a customer
A colorful but gutted backdrop
Andre on the immediate right explaining the sights
Live fowl
Doves in a basket
Lots and lots of fowl
This rooster is plotting an escape perhaps.
More doves
From the Caribbean
Closeup
Now we are in the crowded heart of the marketplace.
This gal is selling a little bit of everything.
Mixing black rice
Andre and I tried to get inside the courtyard of the actual Iron Market, but security wouldn't let us.
A good shot of the minarets and clock.
This section of the Iron Market took a heavy hit from the earthquake.
And yet, a few feet away, a vendor is selling girls' baptismal dresses and such.
Closeup Strange juxtaposition
Continuing down the main thoroughfare
Thousands of shoes for sale
At this point I switched to video mode. Mere photos can't do complete justice to a stroll through the Iron Market. You have to experience the sights and the sounds, and in motion, so I took this footage, later adding some Haitian music. I uploaded this both to Vimeo and YouTube, since YouTube, with all its severe strictures, may have blocked this video in a few areas. So here are both versions, YouTube shown, the Vimeo link next, in case you are having trouble with YouTube or prefer Vimeo. Enjoy one or the other.
YouTube (click on the screen to go directly to YouTube for a larger window):