"No amount of reading,
attendance at conferences, documentary viewing and word of mouth could have
prepared me for the reality of the situation here. You just can't imagine it
unless you see it - and even then you are always well aware that your
experience of it is not at all the reality. Nobody in my family has been shot,
driving in their car, by a rocket launcher from a tower at the end of a major
street in my hometown. When I leave for school or work I can be relatively
certain that there will not be a heavily armed soldier waiting at a checkpoint
with the power to decide whether I can go about my business, and whether I can
get home again when I'm done. I am in Rafah: a city of about 140,000 people,
approximately 60% of whom are refugees - many of whom are twice or three times
refugees. Today, as I walked on top of the rubble where homes once stood,
Egyptian soldiers called to me from the other side of the border, 'Go! Go!'
because a tank was coming. And then waving and [asking] 'What's your name?'
Something disturbing about this friendly curiosity.
It reminded me of how much, to some degree, we are all kids curious about other
kids. Egyptian kids shouting at strange women wandering into the path of tanks.
Palestinian kids shot from the tanks when they peak out from behind walls to
see what's going on. International kids standing in front of tanks with
banners. Israeli kids in the tanks anonymously - occasionally shouting and also
occasionally waving - many forced to be here, many just aggressive - shooting
into the houses as we wander away. There is a great deal of concern here about
the "reoccupation of Gaza.'
Gaza is
reoccupied every day to various extents but I think the fear is that the tanks
will enter all the streets and remain here instead of entering some of the
streets and then withdrawing after some hours or days to observe and shoot from
the edges of the communities. If people aren't already thinking about the
consequences of this war for the people of the entire region then I hope you
will start.
Currently, the Israeli army is building a fourteen-meter-high wall between
Rafah in Palestine
and the border, carving a no-mans land from the houses along the border. Six
hundred and two homes have been completely bulldozed according to the Rafah
Popular Refugee Committee. The number of homes that have been partially
destroyed is greater. Rafah existed prior to 1948, but most of the people here
are themselves or are descendants of people who were relocated here from their
homes in historic Palestine--now Israel. Rafah
was split in half when the Sinai returned to Egypt.
In addition to the constant presence of tanks along the border and in the
western region between Rafah and settlements along the coast, there are more
IDF towers here than I can count--along the horizon, at the end of streets.
Some just army green metal. Others these strange spiral staircases draped in
some kind of netting to make the activity within anonymous. Some hidden, just
beneath the horizon of buildings. A new one went up the other day in the time
it took us to do laundry and to cross town twice to hang banners.
Despite the fact that some of the areas nearest the border are the original
Rafah with families who have lived on this land for at least a century, only the
1948 camps in the center of the city are Palestinian controlled areas under Oslo.
But as far as I can tell, there are few if any places that are not within the
sights of some tower or another. Certainly there is no place invulnerable to
Apache helicopters or to the cameras of invisible drones we hear buzzing over the
city for hours at a time.
According to the municipal water office the wells destroyed last week provided
half of Rafah's water supply. Many of the communities have requested
internationals to be present at night to attempt to shield houses from further
demolition. After about ten p.m. it is very difficult to move at night because
the Israeli army treats anyone in the streets as resistance and shoots at them.
So clearly we are too few.
Many people want their voices to be heard, and I think we need to use some of
our privilege as internationals to get those voices heard directly in the US, rather than
through the filter of well-meaning internationals such as myself. I am just
beginning to learn, from what I expect to be a very intense tutelage, about the
ability of people to organize against all odds, and to resist against all odds.
People here watch the media, and they told me again today that there have been
large protests in the United States and "problems for the government' in the UK. So thanks
for allowing me to not feel like a complete Polyanna when I tentatively tell
people here that many people in the United States do not support the policies
of our government, and that we are learning from global examples how to resist."
February 20 2003:
"Now the Israeli army has actually dug up the road to Gaza, and both of the major checkpoints are
closed. This means that Palestinians who want to go and register for their next
quarter at university can't. People can't get to their jobs and those who are
trapped on the other side can't get home; and internationals, who have a
meeting tomorrow in the West Bank, won't make
it. We could probably make it through if we made serious use of our international
white person privilege, but that would also mean some risk of arrest and
deportation, even though none of us has done anything illegal.
The Gaza Strip is divided in thirds now. There is some talk about the "reoccupation
of Gaza,' but I seriously doubt this will
happen, because I think it would be a geopolitically stupid move for Israel right
now. I think the more likely thing is an increase in smaller
below-the-international-outcry-radar incursions and possibly the oft-hinted "population
transfer.'
A move to reoccupy Gaza would generate a much
larger outcry than Sharon's
assassination-during-peace-negotiations/land grab strategy, which is working
very well now to create settlements all over, slowly but surely eliminating any
meaningful possibility for Palestinian self-determination. Know that I have a
lot of very nice Palestinians looking after me.'"
February 27 2003:
"I have bad nightmares about tanks and bulldozers outside our house. Sometimes
the adrenaline acts as an anesthetic for weeks and then in the evening or at
night it just hits me again - a little bit of the reality of the situation. I
am really scared for the people here. Yesterday, I watched a father lead his
two tiny children, holding his hands, out into the sight of tanks and a sniper
tower and bulldozers and Jeeps because he thought his house was going to be
exploded. Jenny and I stayed in the house with several women and two small
babies. It was our mistake in translation that caused him to think it was his
house that was being exploded. In fact, the Israeli army was in the process of
detonating an explosive in the ground nearby - one that appears to have been
planted by Palestinian resistance.



